McWay Falls at Big Sur, California
Accessing a Coastal Waterfall in Julia Pfeiffer State Park
Jun 5, 2008
McWay Falls
Captured in travel brochures throughout the Golden State, McWay Falls is that oft photographed ribbon-like stream that emerges from thick foliage and drops 80 feet before splashing on the shores of a sandy beach cove. Access to the cove is prohibited, but a perched view of McWay high above the Big Sur shore is accessible by a short trail from the parking lot, and ending at what is left of the Waterfall House, now merely crumbled stone.
Julia Pfeiffer, spelled exactly like Michelle the film star, is a descendant of a local homesteader and many places around Big Sur bear the surname. It is easy to confuse Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, Highway 1, Big Sur, California, with Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park just up the road. The location of the park where McWay can be found is first name feminine.
Directions
Two options in terms of destination cities apply here. Los Angeles, over three hundred miles from Big Sur, offers a slow memorable trip including pleasurable stops like Santa Barbara, Solvang, San Luis Obispo, Pismo, Morro Bay, and Hearst Castle. Be sure to leave Highway 101 at SLO and take State Highway One which winds its way up the central coast and provides spectacular vistas at each curve. From San Francisco, State Highway 1 south, is an equally impressive drive, but is a much shorter distance of just over one hundred miles. Detours here include Santa Cruz, Monterey and Carmel. This option may fit more nicely into a cramped vacation schedule. Highway 1 is the only thoroughfare along the central coast. Look for the brown signs identifying Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park and take the next turn-off, quickly, into the parking area. Follow the well-maintained trail to arguably one of the most breathtaking falls in the state of California.
Obviously the best time to visit is spring and early summer. Like many waterfalls in the state, the flow tends to trickle by August. In the spring the wildflowers are in bloom along the hillside and elephant seals bask at the beach. When pulling out to see the seals, an impressive sight, be warned that the smell is atrocious and stillborns remain unclaimed.
Beware of heavy traffic in the spring and summer as well. Cyclists hug the shoulder and campers can obstruct the view. The turn-offs can be sudden and brake lights appear quick. Remember many are mesmerized by the view and less astute as drivers should be. Expect coastal fog to burn off anywhere between mid-morning and early afternoon. Because of the perpendicular cliff, McWay can be in shade for most the afternoon. Optimal photography is early evening. On occasion offshore winds can become gale force.
Fall and winter can be overcast, dreary, and hazardous because of inclement weather. Also, the highway may be subject to mud slides and closure. Though not discouraging winter travel, coastal weather in California is undependable.
Accommodations
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park offers primitive camping sites that require early reservations. There are also other state parks in the area providing full camping amenities. Generally most campgrounds along California’s coast fill up early during travel season. Some Monterey area campgrounds require three month advanced reservations. Big Sur has become an artist enclave over the years. Representative of the Big Sur experience is Nepenthe Restaurant and the Phoenix Shop, Highway 1, Big Sur, California, where the food is amazing and the cliff side veranda overlooking the Pacific makes lunch an afternoon affair. Nepenthe's parking area is a left turn from Highway 1, but if traveling north, prepare for persistent southbound traffic. American author Henry Miller took up residence here and the Henry Miller Memorial Library, Highway 1, Big Sur, California pays homage to this unique American writer. The Memorial Library parking area is a quick right off Highway 1 and is identified by a non-descript sign along the road. Jack Kerouac stopped through and spent the summer in a friend's cabin. The exploits are in his book Big Sur. Check the prices of area hotels and if they’re a bit much, Monterey is over thirty minutes away and most motel franchises are represented.
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