Lost Coast, California
There’s a place in California between Mendocino in the south and Eureka in the north where Highway 1 leaves the coastline and joins U.S. 101 inland and then proceeds through the immense redwoods before returning to the California shore at Loleta. The stark rugged coastline here, along with the Kings Mountain Range, forces the highways and human development away from some of the most breathtaking scenery in the state. Virgin beaches and pristine natural wilderness are only accessible by a through trail that connects the villages of Shelter Cove and Petrolia. Four sparsely populated townships exist in the range and several ranchers have homesteaded the area. It’s not unusual to see lush green pasture land on a cliff above the Pacific and well fed dairy cows seemingly ambivalent toward their surroundings.
The narrow, pot-holed road between Weott and Honeydew merges into one lane often before accompanying the Mattole River to the shore. At the river’s delta, the Lost Coast trail head departs from its designated parking lot and onto the spongy shore of dark, rich, volcanic sand. Small flowering plants root in the dunes and brace against the brutal wind. Note that morning coastal fog can burn off as late as 2:00 p.m. and evening winds can become gale force. Heading southward along the shore, the trekker observes rivulets dropping from mountain ravines and becoming marshland on approach to the Pacific. Makeshift planks temporarily replace the trail and require serious balance. Packing dry socks is highly encouraged. The Punta Gorda Lighthouse appears in the distance; a whitewashed relic of a bygone era. Now utilized by through-hikers as a location for camp, the main room becomes a storage facility for supplies. The hikers are respectful of the building taking their debris out. A narrow circular staircase ascends to an extremely narrow opening to the lantern room, the lantern obviously removed.
Getting to the Lost Coast
From San Francisco, take either the scenic route of California Highway 1 or the quicker U.S. Highway 101. Either way the routes intersect at Leggett, just south of the coastal redwood lands of northern California and continue north into Humboldt Redwoods State Park to the tiny burg of Weott. Exiting at Weott, access the Avenue of the Giants, State Highway 254, which traces both the 101 and Bull Creek northward to Bull Creek Road. Follow the directional signs west toward Honeydew and Petrolia on the Mattole Road. Beyond Petrolia a directional sign will point westward toward the coast and the trail head.
Amenities
With the exception of camping at Humboldt Redwoods State Park, the closest town of substance is Eureka; an hour north. Many unique dining and lodging locations are in the city. Motel and fast food franchises are plentiful as well. Of note, Eureka is home to the Lost Coast Brewing Company, 617 Fourth Street, where Alley Cat and Lost Coast Ale is brewed. Across Humboldt Bay in nearby Arcata is Humboldt State University, 1 Harbst Street, where many on campus are Lost Coast Trail enthusiasts.
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